Is England Beating France at Its Own Game?

The aluminum hull of Undra rests quietly in the historic estuary moorings of Salcombe, South Devon. For months, Jason and Nikki Wynn have cruised the English coast, exploring tidal harbors and supporting local pub economies. Yet, before arriving at this drying harbor anchorage, vineyards were not on their radar. It was an email from Andy, a self-proclaimed “enthusiastic consumer” from their Gone with the Wynns crew, that altered their itinerary. Andy claimed England possessed sparkling wine capable of rivaling France.

The couple accepted the invitation to investigate. Being curious explorers who document life on wheels and keels since 2011, they embrace the unknown. They left the displacement comfort of their explorer yacht to venture inland. The mission: determine if English sparkling wine is truly beating France at its own game.

History in the Bottles

The expedition began with a history lesson that reshaped assumptions about viticulture. Andy explained that wine arrived with the Romans in 49 AD, only to vanish during the Dark Ages before returning with the aristocracy in the 16th century. But sparkling wine? It was an accident. Old bottles couldn’t withstand pressure from a second fermentation in the bottle, causing explosions.

Historians agree that Christopher Merret, a doctor and scientist, recorded the deliberate triggering of this second fermentation using new, stronger bottles. He added molasses and sugar to activate the process. While Limoux in France claims invention, England’s claim stands firm for the first consistent production.

Sandridge Barton Terroir

Guided by Tom, a winemaker in his 10th year at Sandridge Barton (formerly Sharpham Estate), the crew walked rows of vines on the River Dart. The geography here is distinct from the southeast’s chalk strata. This site sits on volcanic soil with raised limestone beds—remnants of a shallow tropical reef from 500 million years ago.

Variety and Climate

The vineyard is one of the pioneers, planting trial vines in 1981. While most of the UK industry focuses on the southeast, this southwest location benefits from salt water proximity, preventing frost damage. The warming climate has been exceptional for ripening grapes like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Précoce (Frühburgunder). Tom noted that Madeleine Angevine, a variety from the Loire Valley, has become a “banker” grape due to the heat.

The Tasting Experience

Tasting began with a 2021 Blanc de Noirs, 100% Pinot Noir. It was matured on the lees for 30 months after a second fermentation in the bottle. The mousse was fine and civilized, lacking the drying sensation of overly dry wines. Jason noted baked apple characteristics from slight oxidation during pressing.

They also sampled an orange wine made from Madeleine Angevine. The juice, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, smelled of apricot and elderflower. It was milky in appearance but delicious on the palate. The crew realized that relying on wild yeast gives the wine a unique identity specific to this environment.

Furleigh Estate & Sea Pink

Andy took them two hours away to Furleigh Estate. Here, the soil is Folkestone sand—eight to ten feet of dusty soil over clay. This allows roots to find constant moisture. They tasted a “Sea Pink” Rosé made largely from the Rondo grape. The color was unusual, deep pink like Zinfandel, but the flavor was luscious cherry and strawberry.

They also sampled an Extra Brut sparkling wine aged four years on the lees. The nose showed brioche notes, softening over time. Despite the premium quality and nearly eight years in production, the price was £34. Andy explained that small producers avoid massive overheads, allowing them to offer grand cru quality at affordable prices.

Return to Undra

Back on the water in Salcombe, the late summer sunshine lingered. The crew utilized the calm conditions for paddleboarding and foil boarding. The expedition had shifted their perspective; English wine was no longer a myth. It was a reality that thrived on volcanic soil and warming tides.

The journey ended with a lighthouse walk and a reflection on curiosity. They hadn’t planned to find English wine, but nature as a compass led them there. Now, fully stocked with local bottles, they prepare for the next passage in the Channel.