HELLO MADAGASCAR!!! A Dream Come True!!! Sailing To Nosy Be & Getting Cleared In to the

Reaching the northern shores of Madagascar aboard his classic 1965 Alberg 30 masthead sloop, Triteia, solo voyager James Frederick of Sailing Triteia has achieved a monumental circumnavigation milestone. Since departing Newmarks Yacht Centre in Los Angeles Harbor in 2021, Frederick has logged over 22,000 nautical miles across Hawaii, French Polynesia, Fiji, New Zealand, Australia, Thailand, and the demanding expanses of the Indian Ocean in his 61-year-old full-keel fiberglass vessel.

Slipping the dock lines at the French island department of Mayotte, Triteia hoisted full working sail as soon as the vessel cleared the barrier reef pass. Navigating the unpredictable currents and light winds of the Mozambique Channel, Frederick made an offshore landfall at Hell-Ville (Andoany) on the island of Nosy Be in the dead of night, negotiating the unlit harbor to drop anchor and await morning official clearance.

Clearing Into Hell-Ville with Agent Jimmy

Official port clearance in Madagascar can present bureaucratic hurdles across customs, immigration, quarantine health officials, and the harbor master. Anchoring off the commercial waterfront of Hell-Ville, Frederick connected with the cruising crew of Ancala’s Journey, sharing a dinghy ride to the stone landing quay.

To streamline the clearance process, Frederick retained the services of local maritime agent Jimmy, a well-known facilitator listed on the No Foreign Land navigation platform. Accompanied by Jimmy’s dockside assistant Smiles—who watched the tenders for 10,000 Malagasy Ariary (approximately $2.50 USD per day)—the crews completed all administrative filings, passport stamping, and cruising permits for a total fee of approximately $180 USD. With documents secured, currency exchanged, and local provisions stowed, Frederick prepared to relocate Triteia to a quieter, more sheltered anchorage.

Navigating to Crater Bay and a Fouled Propeller

Weighing anchor from the commercial roadstead of Hell-Ville, Triteia embarked on a short four-nautical-mile coastal transit around the peninsula to Crater Bay (Baie des Cratères). Flanked by an extinct volcanic cone, Crater Bay hosts the local yacht club, showers, and a calm mud-bottom mooring basin favored by international bluewater voyagers. Along the passage, local Malagasy sailors crossed the bay in traditional lateen-rigged outrigger dhows, catching the fresh afternoon sea breeze.

As Frederick approached the anchorage to survey a holding spot outside the crowded mooring field, an unexpected mechanical hazard struck. The inboard engine began vibrating violently under load, indicating a severe propeller wrap. Maneuvering deliberately, Frederick engaged reverse intermittently to free the obstruction while nursing the vessel forward at two knots:

• Anchoring Procedure: Selected a clear mud-bottom shelf in 14 feet of water, veering out a secure 5:1 chain scope.
• Underwater Inspection: Free-diving beneath the full keel with a serrated dive knife to inspect the running gear.
• The Culprit: A heavy, woven polypropylene rice sack had wound tightly around the prop shaft and hub. Frederick sliced the tangled plastic free, confirming the shaft remained true and the cutless bearing undamaged.

Madagascar Culture, Wildlife, and Future Cruising

With Triteia resting safely at anchor and the running gear cleared, Frederick went ashore to explore the surrounding landscape of Nosy Be. From the red-dirt roads and vibrant village markets to encountering native lemurs and exploring isolated bays, Madagascar represents one of the most exotic landfalls of his five-year solo voyage.

Sailing a 61-year-old full-keel production boat across the southern oceans underscores the endurance of classic fiberglass yacht design when paired with patient, methodical seamanship. As Frederick prepares for extended explorations along the Mozambique Channel and the eventual passage toward South Africa, Madagascar marks a triumph of determination, careful navigation, and oceanic wanderlust.

Passage and Landfall Specifications Log

Key navigational milestones, vessel parameters, and clearance details from the Mayotte-to-Madagascar passage are detailed below:

Frequently Asked Questions