Cinque Terre, Pisa and too many steps | S2 E07

After securing their Bali 4.6 catamaran, Queen Lizzy 2, in the anchorage of Porto Venere, Anne-Lill and Dean set out on a multi-day shore expedition across the Ligurian cliffs before preparing for their passage south toward Elba on Sailing Queen Lizzy. Leaving the vessel securely moored, the Australian couple grabbed breakfast and boarded regional passenger ferries connecting the five cliffside settlements of Cinque Terre, stepping ashore first at Riomaggiore where pastel houses cluster tightly against the rock face.

From the Riomaggiore train station, they joined the steady flow of hikers along the Via dell’Amore, tracing the coastal cliff path toward Manarola. Carrying walking shoes and water bottles to handle the sustained stair climbs between village terraces, they continued inland by bus from La Spezia Centrale and boarded a regional train into Pisa to inspect the historic cathedral complex.

Exploring Cinque Terre and the Monuments of Pisa

The shore journey began on the water with ferry transits between the dramatic coastal outcroppings of Liguria. Stepping off the boat in the south, Anne-Lill surveyed the steep vertical architecture of Riomaggiore, noting how the multi-hued facades rose directly from the rock: “Riomaggiore orange, pink and red stacked up a cliff like somebody run out of flat land.” The crew walked along the protected cliff edge of the Via dell’Amore to Manarola, navigating between rock faces and shoreline drops amid steady lines of fellow walkers.

From Manarola, the excursion turned inland toward Tuscany. After catching a bus connection from La Spezia Centrale and continuing by train to Pisa, Anne-Lill and Dean took a local taxi directly to the Piazza dei Miracoli. Walking past crowded restaurant-lined alleys, they arrived before the famous bell tower. Dean studied the surrounding stone structures, noting that structural settling extended beyond the main campanile:

“So, it’s not just the tower that leans, the baptistery leans is going that bit that way.”

Inside the Duomo, conditions proved somewhat quieter, offering a brief respite before the crew retraced their route back to the Ligurian coast to prepare their catamaran for sea.

Hoisting the Code Zero Down the Tuscan Coast to Baia dell’Arancio

Returning aboard Queen Lizzy 2 at Porto Venere, the crew prepped the deck and cleared the stern, where Dean spent time hosing down droppings left by roosting seabirds. With lines cast off and the vessel clear of the harbor, they hoisted their Code Zero lightweight headsail, setting a direct offshore course past Livorno under pure sail power without running the engines.

As evening approached, the catamaran pulled into Baia dell’Arancio, dropping anchor in clear water for an overnight rest stop halfway along the transit toward Elba. The following morning brought glassy conditions, prompting the crew to motor at first while preparing deck gear. Dean went forward to unpack the headsail bag, confident that the sea breeze would soon fill in:

“Yeah, yeah. No, we’ll get 10 to 15 today.”

Anticipating 10 to 15 knots on the beam, the crew hoisted the Code Zero once again as the offshore wind developed, carrying the catamaran across the channel toward the northern headlands of Elba.

Freeing a Snagged Anchor Chain at Spiaggia di Barbarossa

Reaching Elba, Queen Lizzy 2 rounded into Spiaggia di Barbarossa near Porto Azzurro to set ground tackle. Taking their tender ashore with Dean at the helm, the crew explored the village waterfront and visited local market stalls to stock up on dried fruit and biscotti. Returning to the anchorage as dusk settled, they prepared to weigh anchor the next morning for a run around to Portoferraio.

When Anne-Lill closed the hydraulic aft saloon garage door and Dean engaged the windlass, the ground tackle refused to lift cleanly. Looking down through the clear water, Dean discovered that the chain had fouled an old abandoned mooring assembly 25 meters down, wrapping discarded rope and iron around the primary link. Anne-Lill slacked out 10 meters of chain from the helm controls to relieve tension while Dean took the dinghy right over the bow to clear the snag:

“This little thing is a chipline hook. It runs on two lines, one made fast to the boat and one in your hand. And you let it ride down the chain link by link until it finds the snag.”

Working from the tender, Dean slid the tripping line hook down the chain links, took up tension on the control line, and lifted the foul clear. With the obstruction released, the chain unwound itself, allowing Anne-Lill to retrieve the anchor cleanly and haul the dinghy back onto the davits.

Navigating Fishing Gear into Portoferraio and Driving Marciana Alta

Steaming along the Elba coast toward Portoferraio, Queen Lizzy 2 shared the fairway with cruising yachts while keeping a sharp lookout for coastal fishing nets and floating markers. Upon entering Portoferraio harbor, the crew secured a berth inside the marina within the historic old town, tying up directly beside the patrol cutters of the Guarda Costiera and Guarda di Finanza. Dean noted the security of their position:

“We’re safe, the captain says.”

With the catamaran berthed, the couple hired a small manual rental car to explore the rugged interior of the island. Dean took the wheel, navigating tight hairpins while observing a basic practical rule:

“Rule one of a hire car in Italy, no road is ever as wide as it looks on the map.”

Climbing narrow mountain roads, they reached the elevated stone village of Marciana Alta and the historic Fortezza Pisana, walking through ancient Bronze Age and Etruscan settlements and passing the Chiesa di Santa Caterina. Returning to Portoferraio, they climbed the extensive stone staircases leading to the Medici fortresses overlooking the busy ferry terminal connecting Elba with Corsica and the Italian mainland.

Returning to an Overcrowded Anchorage at Porto Azzurro

Departing Portoferraio marina, Queen Lizzy 2 waved past the patrol boats and completed a brisk 40-minute coastal passage back to Porto Azzurro. The crew intended to drop anchor for a calm evening before continuing their circumnavigation of Elba.

However, the quiet cove encountered earlier in the week had transformed into a densely packed fleet of visiting yachts. After identifying a slot and deploying the anchor with the bridle secured, Anne-Lill watched another arriving yacht drop ground tackle immediately across Queen Lizzy 2’s bow. With the anchor holding and both vessels swinging in the calm evening breeze, the crew set their watch and prepared to dinghy ashore for dinner in town.

Cruise and Technical Overview

| Metric | Value | Context | | – | – | – | | Anchor Snag Depth | 25 meters | Depth of fouled mooring debris at Spiaggia di Barbarossa | | Chain Lowered to Clear Snag | 10 meters | Scope paid out from helm to relieve tension on fouled chain | | Beam Wind Forecast | 10 to 15 knots | Dean’s breeze estimate for hoisting Code Zero toward Elba | | Coastal Transit Duration | 40 minutes | Motor-sail run from Portoferraio marina to Porto Azzurro | | Cinque Terre Settlements | 5 villages | South-to-north coastal settlements along the Ligurian route |

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