swimming with humpback WHALES ; I can't believe I get to share this life | [ep 218]

Arriving in French Polynesia on an early morning flight touching down at 5 a.m., guest Nicole transfers by ferry to meet mariner Lauren Landers before boarding a dive boat for whale encounters off Moorea. Lauren and friends have breakfast ready at the dock:

“Got on the ferry. We had coffee ready for her as soon as she got on the boat. We had breakfast and are now on the dive boat.”

Southern Hemisphere Humpback Whale Briefing

Aboard the dive boat, an offshore naturalist details the habits of the migrating whales. Unlike northern hemisphere humpbacks with darker bellies, southern hemisphere populations migrating into French Polynesia have whiter pigmentation underneath and do not cross the equator. Spending their winter fasting in warm tropical waters, female whales calve and nurse without feeding:

“Even the moms that are pregnant they come here to give birth to the babies and then nurse milk feed the the babies don’t eat. So they lose up to 1/3 of their weight on the migration on the whole season.”

Newborn calves consume about 100 kilograms of milk per day to build strength for the return migration south. Over the next days, Lauren explores Moorea with friends Devon, Sean, and Nicole, hiking trails and swimming with rays.

The 100-Mile Motor Passage from Raiatea to Moorea

Following the patron gathering, Lauren relocates to Raiatea to take command of a charter catamaran. Crew members pull the vessel from the marina slip to begin a 100-mile motor transit back toward Moorea.

The ocean swell subsides, leaving roughly 10 knots of headwind along the route. Ashore in Moorea, Sylvia and Lauren’s mother coordinate provisioning supplies to prepare the boat for incoming charter clients.

Charter Crew Helm Training and Anchor Watch

With charter guests aboard, the catamaran gets underway for a 10-mile passage between island anchorages. Lauren introduces the crew directly to helm control and anchoring procedures:

“I had Jim already on the helm and Rick and Brandy were on windlass and so now we have like a 10-ish mile sail to the next spot.”

At the anchorage, Jim holds position while Rick and Brandy operate the windlass to set the anchor. Once secure, the crew rig a bridle to take strain off the windlass. Within an hour of setting the hook, a humpback whale surfaces near the catamaran.

Lauren encourages guest participation on deck:

“One thing I love about these charters is being able to put them in charge if they want to. It’s just fun to watch other people learn and operate and navigate and figure out the boat stuff.”

Catamaran Solo Overnight Underway

As the charter week concludes, guests Rick and Brandy complete their final anchor retrieval duties. After seeing her guests off, Lauren sets out from Moorea on her first solo overnight passage aboard a catamaran.

Facing squally conditions with light wind and incoming swell, Lauren maintains watch while reflecting on the week of marine encounters:

“Just this island is so special and so happy to share it and I try to stay in the moment, which is why I don’t really film much.”

Leaving the anchorage under headsail, the catamaran continues offshore to complete the passage.

Frequently Asked Questions