SHE FOUND HER CALLING!

Rising dramatically from the cobalt waters of the Koro Sea, the drowned volcanic caldera of Totoya Island marks one of the most isolated outposts in Fiji’s eastern Lau Group. For Scottish voyagers Iain and Brioni Cameron of Sailing Red Seas, this submerged volcanic rim provided a peaceful sanctuary after months of hard ocean voyaging. Yet their sights were set westward across open waters toward Kadavu Island—a high-relief volcanic archipelago celebrated for the intricate passes of the Great Astrolabe Reef and the pelagic manta rays frequenting its cleaning stations. Aboard their 2005 Robertson & Caine Leopard 47 catamaran Indioko, the cruising pair prepared to make an overnight passage to locate and freedive with these gentle ocean giants.

Pacific passage making demands vigilant seamanship, especially when navigating between isolated island chains where weather windows are brief and coral barrier reefs guard every viable anchorage. Having sailed Indioko across more than 20,000 nautical miles from Europe through the Caribbean and across the South Pacific to New Zealand, Iain and Brioni have established a reputation for technical self-reliance. Their voyage to Kadavu combined open-ocean routing, high-stakes barrier reef pilotage, traditional Fijian cultural protocols, and exhilarating in-water encounters with one of the ocean’s most charismatic species.

Offshore Passage: Crossing the Koro Sea from Totoya to Kadavu

Embarking on their open-ocean passage from Totoya Island in the Lau Group of Fiji toward Kadavu Island, Iain and Brioni Cameron of Sailing Red Seas prepared their Leopard 47 catamaran Indioko for a demanding 110-nautical-mile crossing. An odd meteorological pattern had gripped Fiji, with overcast skies and rare weather windows. Satellite forecasts warned of a three-meter ocean swell building from the south later in the week while wind speeds diminished. For a multihull, sailing downwind in light air with three-meter beam swells produces violent motion and sail slatting. Iain and Brioni chose to seize an immediate window, departing Totoya at 21:00 to ensure an arrival in Kadavu during optimal overhead midday sun.

Their stay in Totoya had concluded with touching village hospitality. Anchored inside the island’s volcanic crater, they visited the village school during holidays and attended Sunday church services, where the congregation warmly welcomed them. A local family invited the sailors into their home to share a meal of freshly caught reef fish simmered in coconut milk with garden root vegetables. Underway that evening, Indioko began downwind under genoa alone at five to six knots. To accelerate, Iain brought the catamaran higher onto a broad reach and hoisted the mainsail. Despite two-meter quartering seas, Indioko’s speed surged to 9.7 knots. Along the route, they converged with a solo Scottish sailor aboard a companion monohull—a rare offshore rendezvous between fellow Scots.

Barrier Reef Seamanship: Ingress through the Great Astrolabe Pass

Closing in on the barrier reef defenses of Kadavu Island in Fiji, Iain and Brioni Cameron navigated their Leopard 47 catamaran Indioko for Sailing Red Seas through the volatile hydrodynamic conditions of the Great Astrolabe Reef. Identifying an accessible southern reef pass rather than the northern cut originally planned, Iain altered course by 90 degrees. Taking the building ocean swell on the beam at nearly ten knots created an aggressive roll, prompting the crew to furl down the genoa and stabilize their approach speed to a disciplined eight knots.

Arriving at mid-tide during the ebb cycle introduced serious pilotage hazards. As outgoing lagoon water met incoming ocean rollers, steep standing waves formed directly in the throat of the cut. While their Scottish companion boat attempted to sail through under headsail, Iain held Indioko offshore in deep water to provide ample room. During the wait, a surging wave crested up the catamaran’s transom sugar scoops, soaking Iain to his knees. Powering through the pass under twin diesel engines, Indioko crossed the threshold into total calm. The outer reef obliterated the oceanic swell instantly, allowing the crew to unfurl the genoa and glide smoothly across flat water toward Buliya Island.

Cultural Protocol: The Sevusevu Ceremony on Buliya Island

Before exploring the surrounding waters of Kadavu Island in Fiji, Iain and Brioni Cameron of Sailing Red Seas brought their Leopard 47 catamaran Indioko to anchor off Buliya Island to observe essential indigenous protocol. In Fiji, coastal waters form the customary marine tenure (qoliqoli) of native villages. Visiting voyagers must present themselves to the village headman and chief to perform a sevusevu ceremony, formally presenting a bundle of waka (dried kava root) to seek permission to anchor and dive.

Going ashore with kava in hand, Iain and Brioni met the high chief, who holds authority over three neighboring islands, including the local sanctuary referred to as Manta Island. The chief granted full permission to explore all three islands under their single sevusevu. Exploring Buliya afterward, the pair discovered an abandoned stilt beach house that had weathered tropical storms, featuring a solitary blackboard on the wall. Celebrating the return of tropical sunshine, Brioni donned a mermaid tail gifted to her in New Zealand, playfully swimming through the warm turquoise shallows.

In-Water Encounters: Freediving with Pelagic Manta Rays

Anchoring in glassy conditions off Kadavu Island in Fiji, Iain and Brioni Cameron positioned their Leopard 47 catamaran Indioko for Sailing Red Seas near Manta Island to locate cleaning stations frequented by giant manta rays. Accompanied by playful dolphins on the morning shift, Iain launched their aerial drone, quickly confirming large dark diamond shapes gliding just beneath the mirror-smooth surface. Taking their dinghy toward the reef point, the crew dropped anchor in a sandy patch well clear of the coral to avoid disturbing the animals with engine noise.

Slipping into the clear water on breath-hold, Iain and Brioni encountered three massive pelagic manta rays (*Mobula birostris*) circling a prominent coral bommie. Cleaner wrasse swarmed around the rays, removing parasites from their gills and wings. With wingspans stretching beyond four meters—larger than a family automobile—the rays dwarfed the free-swimming mariners. The crew identified two mature females by their smooth pelvic contours, one individual with a missing tail, and a spectacular melanistic “shadow manta” possessing solid black coloration across both its dorsal back and ventral belly.

Marine Conservation and Ecological Dynamics in the Astrolabe Reef

Observing marine life around Kadavu Island in Fiji, Iain and Brioni Cameron of Sailing Red Seas deployed underwater imaging technology from their Leopard 47 catamaran Indioko to document the Great Astrolabe Reef’s flourishing ecosystem. During a second freediving session, four more mantas arrived, swooping in synchronized loops like underwater ballet dancers. To capture close-range footage without causing disturbance, Iain deployed “Scooby-Doo,” the crew’s tethered underwater ROV, whose quiet electric thrusters allowed the curious mantas to hover within inches of the camera.

The encounter highlighted the ecological importance of Fiji’s community-managed marine protected areas. Because customary fishing rights restrict commercial intrusion, Kadavu’s cleaning stations remain free from tourist overcrowding. Supported by pristine coral bommies and abundant biodiversity, including hawksbill sea turtles, the Great Astrolabe Reef serves as an invaluable sanctuary for vulnerable pelagic species, underscoring the vital role of respectful cruising practices in preserving remote ocean habitats.

Passage Telemetry, Vessel Specifications & Anchorage Conditions

Documenting their voyage between the Lau Group and Kadavu Island in Fiji, Iain and Brioni Cameron of Sailing Red Seas logged essential passage telemetry, yacht metrics, and anchorage conditions aboard their Leopard 47 catamaran Indioko.

Frequently Asked Questions

Below are essential nautical, technical, and cultural answers regarding the voyage of Iain and Brioni Cameron aboard their Leopard 47 catamaran Indioko from the Lau Group to Kadavu Island, Fiji, with Sailing Red Seas.