This week, we find ourselves anchored in the middle of history within an ancient hurricane hole in English Harbor, Antigua. As we step back in time and explore this historic site, we’ll uncover tales of Lord Nelson’s dockyard, visit Fort Berkeley, and make our way up to Shirley Heights for breathtaking sunset views and a delicious local barbecue.
With the world’s toughest row across an ocean culminating right here in our bay, this episode promises not only an educational journey through Antigua’s history but also an incredible display of human endurance and achievement.
Located within the well-protected hurricane hole is Nelson’s dockyard, a cultural heritage site and arena in English Harbor. Built in the early 18th century by the British Navy, it remains the only continuously operating Georgian-era dockyard in the world. Today, it’s part of a national park and hosts various sailing and yachting events, including the arrival of exquisite vessels visiting the area.
Incredible moments unfolded as we witnessed one of the teams completing the toughest row across the Atlantic. Teams from all walks of life gather to take on the challenge of crossing an ocean in a rowboat, facing sleep deprivation, salt sores, and physical extremes. The rowers battle with an expanse of the ocean and each other to safely cross more than 1.5 million strokes over 3,000 miles.
Just a short walk from Nelson’s Dockyard is the imposing structure of Fort Berkeley. Built on a rocky peninsula that forms the west side of English Harbor, this strategic defense system once housed 25 cannons each capable of firing a massive 24-pound iron shot. The crew consisted of just 13 men per gun.
The fort itself consists of several key structures: the powder magazine, guard house, and defense walls. As you walk around the remains of Fort Berkeley, it’s hard not to be impressed by how these ancient walls have held up through time, showcasing both strength and skilled craftsmanship from centuries ago.
The hike up Shirley Heights, also known as the Lookout Trail, leads us to another fascinating historical site with breathtaking views of the island. Historically a last resort military position for defending this region of Antigua, it’s easy to see why they chose this location – the panoramic view is truly magnificent.
The trail itself provides an incredible workout as we traverse through lush greenery and along rocky paths that lead up to the lookout point where locals gather twice a week for BBQs and live music performances. On this particular evening, as luck would have it, our timing allowed us to witness not just a spectacular sunset but also enjoy the warm camaraderie at Shirley Heights.
As we descend in the dark, dodging our way through rocks along the path, one can’t help but marvel at what the night must’ve been like for soldiers guarding this area centuries ago. It’s an eerie yet humbling experience.
Anchored within these ancient hurricane holes, surrounded by history and awe-inspiring moments of human endurance, our adventure in Antigua has truly been unforgettable. If you find yourself with a similar thirst for exploration, be sure to visit Fort Berkeley, Nelson’s Dockyard, Shirley Heights, and witness the finish line of one of the world’s most challenging rows if your timing aligns.
These experiences may just leave you questioning whether there is anything quite so rewarding as immersing oneself in the rich tapestry of history, culture, and adventure that Antigua offers. Until next time, keep exploring!
The Caribbean is thwart with a history of stolen land and treacherous weather. Protection from takeover is only half the battle. But Hurricanes can destroy so much more.
It’s no wonder Lord Nelson decided to make English Harbour the south side of Antigua the safe haven for his fleet and strong hold to protect Antigua.
This natural hurricane harbor protected the English fleet and the island for over 100 years.
What an amazing experience it was to be able to step back in time and be a part of the history in Antigua.
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*Chapters*
00:00 Welcome
01:06 Settling In
03:33 Fort Berkeley
05:59 English Harbour
06:12 Nelson's Dockyard
06:57 World's Toughest Row
11:20 Shirley Hights
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#antigua #caribbeanisland #hurrican #sailinglife #adventuretravel #sailing
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