Island Hopping the Exumas: Sailing, Pigs & Grotto Dives!

Entering the shallow approach to Soldier Cay in the Exumas, Captain Connor took the helm while the family aboard Sailing Big Lost prepared to navigate a narrow channel past an exposed sandbar. In the galley below, Maddie finished a breakfast of waffles and wrapped up her morning school assignments before stepping outside to observe the incoming route. Traveling alongside their buddy boat, La Vida Shred, the catamaran encountered overcast skies while motoring toward an anchorage positioned near a local dive site known as the Aquarium.

Because the run covered only 3 nautical miles from their previous anchorage and the wind remained light, the crew relied on the engines rather than hoisting canvas for the short transit. Approaching the pass, Connor monitored the depth sounder as water depth decreased over the shoals. Observing the narrow cut between the shallows, Kelly noted, “hopefully we don’t end up like all those stories we hear about,” while tracking the channel ahead.

Navigating the Soldier Cay Sandbar Cut

The channel led directly across a pale shelf of sand, giving Connor and Kelly a clear view of the bottom profile as the vessel eased through the cut. The depth sounder recorded about 13 feet of water depth beneath the hulls, revealing a safe margin despite the intimidating visual contrast of the surrounding shallows. Kelly wondered aloud, “wonder who found this route,” as Connor guided the catamaran around the point and into calmer holding ground.

Astern of Big Lost, their companion vessel La Vida Shred followed along the same track. Being relatively new to cruising, the crew on the trailing boat negotiated the tight bend with careful throttles. With both vessels safely clear of the sandbar and resting in the protected pocket behind Soldier Cay, the crews turned their attention toward snorkeling the nearby reefs and preparing for their next passage leg south toward Staniel Cay.

Sourdough Pop-Tarts and Sailing to Staniel Cay

Departing Soldier Cay, Big Lost raised sail in light air and settled into a steady pace of about 6 knots toward Staniel Cay. The Exuma waters presented a significant contrast in marine traffic compared to quieter stretches from earlier travels, requiring steady watchkeeping at the helm. As Kelly pointed out while surveying the surrounding boats, “you kind of actually got to pay attention as you navigate around all of these boats,” though the active cruising corridor offered frequent opportunities to meet other voyagers.

Underway in the galley, Kelly spent the passage baking a batch of homemade sourdough Pop-Tarts. Although the berry filling leaked onto the baking tray, the pastries browned evenly, awaiting an added layer of sweet glaze once cooled. Nearby in the saloon, schoolwork resumed under the motion of the hulls. Maddie exchanged text messages with her friend Marissa aboard La Vida Shred, while Finn worked through a lesson on thermal energy, methodically advancing through the daily curriculum while the catamaran tracked south.

Anchoring off Pig Beach at Big Major Cay

Reaching Staniel Cay, the crew dropped anchor off Big Major Cay, directly opposite the famous shoreline of Pig Beach. The anchorage hosted an assortment of vessels, including a high-performance Gunboat catamaran that drew admiring looks from both crews. Ashore near the local marina docks at Staniel Cay Yacht Club, nurse sharks and bull sharks cruised through the shallows, accustomed to congregating for fish scraps discarded by local fishermen.

Launching the dinghy, Maddie took the tiller and guided the inflatable to the beach where pigs and piglets roamed the water’s edge. According to local lore recounted by the crew, the animals originally reached the cay after a historical shipwreck or were left behind by passing sailors intending to retrieve them later. Although local tour excursions feed the animals daily, the crew found the shore experience messy and crowded. Kelly reflected that while they were glad to inspect the site firsthand, “it’s not a spot we’d rush back to,” particularly after noticing an injured pig with a missing hind foot and watching piglets jostle over nursing rights on the sand.

Snorkeling Thunderball Grotto at Slack Tide

Early the following morning, the crew set out by tender to explore Thunderball Grotto, timing their arrival precisely for slack tide. Cruisers must enter the cave during the brief window of slack water to avoid powerful tidal currents that rush through the low-clearance rock entrances. Inside the hollowed limestone cavern, light filtered through ceiling openings, illuminating tropical fish and submerged rock formations that served as filming backdrops for the 1963 James Bond movie Thunderball and the 1983 release Never Say Never Again. Swimming beneath the rock arches gave the family an unobstructed view of the underwater topography before the changing tide began to gather strength.

Hoisting the Mainsail for Farmer’s Cay

Weighing anchor from Big Major Cay, Big Lost prepared for the passage to Farmer’s Cay. With Maddie and Finn spending the transit aboard their buddy boat La Vida Shred with Brian and Aaron, Connor and Kelly handled the catamaran shorthanded. Stepping onto the mast platform to free the mainsail halyard and unhook the headboard, Kelly briefly scrambled for footing after forgetting to fold down a mast step before unhooking the sail and releasing the topping lift.

As the mainsail rose between the blue lines of the lazy jacks, the batten pockets threatened to foul against the cordage. Kelly called down for a course adjustment, prompting Connor to confirm from the wheel, “according to my thing I’m going dead nuts into the wind.” Once the sail cleared the lines, the crew rolled out the headsail to catch the building breeze, declaring “we got full main full head sail and we’re off” as the catamaran surged forward.

Arriving off Farmer’s Cay, the crew prepared to cross the approach channel into the anchorage. Connor went forward to douse the headsail on the bow while Kelly managed the halyard to lower the mainsail, easing the vessel across a distinct water depth line into the sheltered roadstead.

Exumas Passage Summary

Frequently Asked Questions