the most sharks we have ever seen

When Lee and Sara Rice set sail from Australia’s Gold Coast in 2016 aboard Sailing Catalpa, they were navigating a $15,000 ferro-cement monohull with two toddlers and no offshore experience. A decade and thousands of nautical miles later, that bold departure has evolved into one of cruising’s most respected family odysseys. Now voyaging across French Polynesia aboard Catalpa II, a heavily built 1981 Pearson 530 center-cockpit ketch, the Australian couple—alongside teenage children Taj and Bella—have reached the remote atolls of the Tuamotu Archipelago. Navigating into Fakarava’s expansive turquoise lagoon, the crew confronted one of the most biodiverse marine habitats on earth.

Fakarava represents a pivotal milestone in the Rice family’s trans-Pacific expedition aboard Catalpa II. Having completed extensive structural refits in Mexico and navigated Central American coastal corridors, the vessel was engineered specifically for off-grid self-reliance in remote tropical archipelagos. In the southern sector of Fakarava Atoll, adjacent to the historic settlement of Tetamanu, lies Tumakohua Pass—celebrated globally as the ‘Wall of Sharks.’ Here, tidal hydrology creates a dynamic underwater amphitheater where hundreds of apex predators hover stationary within the incoming current, offering Taj and Bella an extraordinary natural classroom in South Pacific coral reef ecology.

Entering Fakarava Atoll: Tuamotu Navigation and Geological Majesty

Guiding the Pearson 530 Catalpa II through the reef passes of Fakarava in the Tuamotu Archipelago, Lee and Sara Rice of Sailing Catalpa entered a pristine geological formation shaped by volcanic subsidence. Spanning 60 kilometers by 21 kilometers, Fakarava is the second largest atoll in the Tuamotus, designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The sunken volcanic ring encloses a shimmering lagoon connected to the open South Pacific by two primary cuts: Garuae Pass in the north and Tumakohua Pass in the south.

Navigating an atoll requires careful calculations from offshore mariners. Enormous oceanic swells and rising tides force millions of cubic meters of seawater into the lagoon, creating furious tidal currents of six to eight knots through the narrow passes. Arriving off Tetamanu at the southern pass, the Rice family timed their entrance near slack water to avoid standing waves and overfalls, dropping anchor safely in the protected lee of the southern motu.

The Wall of Sharks: Free-Diving Tumakohua Pass

Dropping anchor in the lee of Tetamanu at the southern boundary of Fakarava in the Tuamotus, Lee and Sara Rice of Sailing Catalpa prepared their Pearson 530 Catalpa II as an expedition basecamp for free-diving Tumakohua Pass. Their initial excursion into the pass proved frustrating; lingering head congestion prevented equalizing during descents, fogged mask lenses obscured the underwater landscape, and shifting currents created localized cloudiness. Rather than chartering scuba gear from dive operators ashore, the Rice family waited patiently aboard the vessel until sinus pressure cleared and the incoming tidal window offered optimal water clarity.

The subsequent morning brought pristine conditions. Diving into the turquoise pass on an incoming tide, the family drifted silently over the outer canyon rim. At depths between 18 and 20 meters (59 to 66 feet), the famed ‘Wall of Sharks’ materialized out of the sapphire blue. Hundreds of grey reef sharks (Carcharhinus amblyrhynchos), accompanied by whitetip reef sharks (Triaenodon obesus) and sleek blacktips, hovered motionless in the incoming stream, utilizing passive ram-ventilation to breathe effortlessly. Drifting onward into shallower coral gardens, the family enjoyed intimate encounters without scuba bubble noise, reaffirming their decision to explore on breath-hold.

Reef Break Reconnaissance and Remote Coral Shorelines

While staged inside Fakarava in the Tuamotu Archipelago aboard their Pearson 530 Catalpa II, Lee and Sara Rice of Sailing Catalpa monitored regional swell forecasts in search of clean Pacific surf along the atoll’s barrier reef. Friends aboard the cruising yacht Sailing with Six had previously reported a workable wave peeling over the shallow outer reef shelf near the South Pass. Anticipating a forecast window on Thursday with negligible wind and favorable angles, Lee and Taj loaded their surfboards into the dinghy to investigate the outer reef edge.

Paddling out, the duo discovered that ocean swell was marginally too small to wrap cleanly over shallow coral plateaus. Waves broke directly onto razor-sharp coral bombies in only a few feet of water, with several reef sharks circling below. Lee and Taj prudently chose to forgo the sketchy surf and redirected their day toward exploring uninhabited motus along the lagoon rim. Taj cracked fresh coconuts against coral rocks to share sweet water and meat, complemented by Lineage Provisions snack bars. As afternoon squalls cleared, a radiant double rainbow arched overhead, dedicated to the heavenly birthday of Sara’s late grandfather, Poppy.

A River of Apex Predators: The 300-Shark South Pass Drift

Returning to Tumakohua Pass on an optimal incoming tide, Lee and Sara Rice of Sailing Catalpa anchored their tender to immerse the crew of the Pearson 530 Catalpa II directly into Fakarava’s legendary marine spectacle in the Tuamotu Archipelago. What followed was what Lee hailed as a ‘bloody river of a dive’—a continuous drift snorkel through one of the densest biomass concentrations in the South Pacific. Shifting across the channel away from surge into gin-clear water, the family drifted alongside an estimated 300 reef sharks and over 10,000 schooling fish, including dense clouds of bigeye trevally, snappers, and surgeonfish.

In the shallows directly fronting the Tetamanu dive station, curious grey reef and whitetip sharks cruised within arm’s reach along the sandy bottom, unfazed by human presence. Clad in protective neoprene wetsuits to stave off the chill of prolonged drift sessions, Taj and Bella observed the predators’ calm, non-aggressive demeanor. This immersion demonstrated the role of sharks as essential regulators of coral health, validating a decade of nomadic ocean homeschooling and instilling a profound respect for marine ecology.

Lagoon Transit to Rotoava: Superyacht Encounters and Atoll Logistics

Departing the southern anchorage of Fakarava in the Tuamotu Archipelago, Lee and Sara Rice navigated their Pearson 530 Catalpa II northward across 30 nautical miles of open lagoon water, maneuvering around the intricate coral bombies that define this Sailing Catalpa expedition. Transiting an atoll lagoon requires constant vigilance; coral pinnacles rise abruptly from depths of 30 meters to just inches beneath the surface. Clear overhead sunlight and dedicated bow watches were mandatory to identify coral heads before a keel strike occurred.

During their northward passage, the crew intercepted a striking AIS target: a 171-foot luxury superyacht carrying a 33-foot beam and a 15-foot draft, underscoring the sophisticated navigation required to guide deep-draft vessels through Tuamotu coral heads. Reaching Rotoava village on Saturday, the family stocked up before visiting mega-yacht crews cleared the shelves. With the Tahiti cargo ship arriving on Wednesdays, the second supermarket closer to their anchorage was well-stocked, enabling the crew to secure fresh produce and coveted cartons of eggs, a scarce luxury across remote atolls.

Atoll Exploration and Pearson 530 Off-Grid Power Forensics

Going ashore at Rotoava Village on Fakarava in the Tuamotu Archipelago, Lee and Sara Rice of Sailing Catalpa stepped away from the helm of their Pearson 530 Catalpa II to explore the narrow atoll rim by bicycle. Pedaling north on a quiet Sunday, the family scouted alternative anchorages, noting how the 60-kilometer internal lagoon fetch whips up steep chop, making northern anchorages uncomfortable when trade winds freshen. Along the road, a friendly island dog bonded with Bella, trotting loyally alongside until they returned to their tender.

Back aboard Catalpa II, Lee audited the yacht’s off-grid solar infrastructure. Engineered during their Mexican refit, the custom hardtop houses 2,400 watts of Shadow Flux and Renogy solar panels with engineered airflow ventilation. Under clear tropical skies, the array generated 2,300 watts—an astonishing 96% real-world efficiency. By 10:00 AM, the lithium battery bank was fully charged, powering electric water heaters and auxiliary banks while maintaining 900 watts even under clouds. With provisions, fuel, and pails secured on deck, Lee and Sara weighed anchor to exit through Garuae Pass, riding trade winds toward their next Tuamotu destination.

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