Perfect Sailing Conditions Inside South Pacific Atoll!

Perfect Sailing Conditions Inside South Pacific Atoll!

Welcome to another captivating episode from Elixir Voyage, where we journey around the globe onboard Elixir. Join us as we explore one of the largest atoll chains in the world, nestled precisely in the heart of the Pacific Ocean.

As our circumnavigation reaches almost halfway mark, we continue traversing across the serene South Pacific, uncovering some of the most isolated destinations on Elixir. At present, we find ourselves within the atoll of Fakarava, one of the prominent larger atolls in the chain. Our last week has been spent anchored next to the South Pass, a globally acclaimed dive site renowned for its exceptional marine life.

Among our exhilarating underwater adventures, we ventured into the notorious ‘Wall of Sharks’. This might seem intimidating; however, rest assured that it houses countless friendly sharks, offering an otherworldly experience close to these majestic creatures. Timing our visit with the annual grouper spawning added to our awe: thousands of marbled groupers gathered beneath a full moon’s soft glow for reproduction.

Following a month without shopping, we were delighted to learn about a town and a small shop located in the northern part of the island. We reluctantly left the South Pass behind and set sail for the other side of the lagoon.

The Journey Across Fakarava’s Lagoon

Fakarava, known for its natural beauty, offered us perfect sailing conditions. The edge of the atoll forms a thin strip of land, protecting us from the harsh Pacific swells. Furthermore, it remained low-lying, not obstructing much wind allowing us to harness the power of a steady breeze.

Our destination was Rotuma Rava, 30 nautical miles away. This town would grant us the opportunity to replenish supplies and dine in at a restaurant, along with potential sightings of manta rays. Excitement filled the air as we reveled in knowing that friends aboard Latifa, an exquisite wooden classic from 1936, sailed behind Elixir.

Joining Latifa’s Epic Journey

The wind was on our beam, marking one of Elixir’s best sailing points. Despite being overtaken by Latifa within the next half hour, we found joy in sharing this incredible experience together within a picturesque atoll.

My final sail onboard Elixir commenced amidst an unparalleled day as I looked up, spotting not a single cloud. We remained grateful for our sheltered haven, courtesy of the vast Pacific swell being blocked by the low-lying island and the constant breeze ensuring smooth sailing.

Anchoring in Fakarava

While anchoring within an atoll poses challenges due to its diverse sea floor environment, we deployed a snubber – a long rope with a hook on the end – securing it to the anchor chain and boat. Our purpose? To minimize potential snagging on coral formations, known locally as bommies.

Following an age-old anchoring protocol, post setting the snubber, we backed down using our engine to pull the anchor and chain, digging deep into the seabed. If successful, it ensures we wouldn’t drag should winds pick up during the night. To further assure ourselves of a secure hold, one could dive on the anchor.

Typically, for every 10 meters of water depth, we let out four to five times that length in chain, ensuring Elixir remained steadfast amidst any waves or sea swells.

Cycling Around Fakarava

With little time to spare before setting sail towards Tahiti, our crew decided to rent bikes and explore the island’s single road – a testament to its elongated shape. Our excitement peaked at the thought of pedaling along, flanked by unobstructed Pacific swells on one side and Elixir’s serene anchorage in the sheltered lagoon.

Fakarava is home to approximately 800 residents whose livelihoods stem from tourism, pearl farms, export of sea cucumbers, and copra production. Weekly supply ships from Tahiti bring fresh produce and fruits – a luxurious treat after months spent primarily at anchor in remote atolls.

Parting Thoughts as Elixir Leaves the To’otu

As we prepare to leave Fakarava’s tranquil shores, memories of cycling along its solitary road with friends, witnessing sunsets from an island bar, diving amidst schools of sharks and groupers remain etched in our minds.

The final stretch before Tahiti awaits – 250 miles dead downwind. Goodbye to the To’otu atolls, which provided a glimpse into untouched paradise. With only two crew members onboard now, we feel an invigorating sense of camaraderie as we push onward towards our next adventure in Tahiti.

Until our next episode, thanks for joining us on this unforgettable journey around the globe!