Squalls are focused small storms, with wind speeds that can approach and exceed gale force. As we get closer to the Caribbean, these become more and more common, especially at night, to the point that we’re rarely less than a few miles from one. Since th...
In this middle section of the passage we make the turn west into the trade-winds. We’ve headed almost 200nm south and are now just north of the Cape Verde Islands. And as the temps warm and the winds change from northerlies to easterlies, the westerly cu...
And then it happens! Departure day arrives and we have a time slot to leave! Our nerves are frayed to the ragged edge, but this is what we came for. We’re committed, and like lemmings we follow the other boats toward the cliff edge.
Actually, it’s qu...
As time winds down to departure for the 2019 ARC, boat crews frantically try to finish last minute projects. The ARC opening ceremonies, complete with parade and huge party, drive home the fact that time is running out.
Luckily for us, our early arrival ...
As we enter the second week of prep for the ARC transatlantic crossing, we focus on converting Talisman from a boat that’s bombproof at sea, to one that is also ready to go off the grid for extended periods. We take a pessimistic view, envisioning up to ...
The ARC, or Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, has been held every year now for over 30 years. As a vehicle for “safety in numbers”, 189 boats participated in the November, 2019 transatlantic crossing, and it's one of the biggest cruising rallies to be found...
Tips on Passing the RYA Yachtmaster Offshore Exam:
These mostly from local RYA instructors. Contact me off-list for a more robust version of what follows.
So what’s it like? What does it take to pass? These are the burning questions each candidate ...
Our race westward continues with a long 860nm passage from the island of Malta, located between the Sicily and the continent of Africa, to Cartagena, Spain. Following a breakage of our electric mainsail furler, we make landfall at Villasimius, on the south...
After four days waiting out the weather in Mykonos (Greece), we finally head off southwest and west toward Malta, the first major leg of a trip that eventually extends all the way to the Caribbean.
But within hours we receive a chilling Pan Pan (distress...
A pretty big passage from Rhodes, Greece, an island occupied and fortified by the Knights Templar, over to the remote island of Symi, then on to the anchorage at Kamari (island of Kos) for some sailboarding, a wedding at Kalymnos, crazy katabatic winds at ...
We visit four of the best spots in southern Turkey for cruising sailboats, Bozak Boku, the cliff tombs of Dalyan, Gocek Bay, and Cokertme. We get some good wind in between and the sailing turns out to be top notch.
The eastern Med never fails to amaze. Our stops were largely dictated by what we heard from other cruisers. Someone would say "you have to go here, here, and here", and that's where we'd go. These were some of the best times we'd had.
Another near miss. This episode is more of a "what to do as a skipper" version. We hate when this happens, but if you're out on the water it'll only be a matter of time. Location is the waters between Greece and Turkey, in the Aegean Sea.
A quick COVID-19 update from the Caribbean (Antigua), and then on to some more maintenance in Bodrum, Turkey. Specifically, we address motor mount issues on our genset, install an external voltage regulator (Sterling Power), and add a large fuel filter to ...
Wow! What to say. We sailed to so many cool places in a relatively short period of time that it all seemed to blend into one. The winds filled our sails and the sun shone. The water took on the light turquoise color you get when sun and sand bottoms come t...
Out hot water heater (cholorifier) rots out, flooding the bilge with water. The bad part about this is that there were 750 liters of water in the holding tank that could continue siphoning. So now another repair project, costing money and time. It never en...
We finally get back to sailing after two weeks being pinned in Mykonos marina by the Meltemi winds. We still have upcoming mechanical issues, but for the moment it's time to relax.
We have a less than ideal anchoring experience on our first night in Mykonos, Greece when the Meltemi winds fill in on us. Stuck on a lee shore in 30-40 knot winds, we're forced to stand anchor watch until dawn. But when we try to seek refuge in the marina...
We leave the charming town of Galaxidi, Greece on our way south and east, headed for the Aegean Sea. Along the way we get treated to the most amazing dolphin show we've ever seen, either in-person or on video. Next comes the Corinth Canal, which turns out ...
Leaving Kioni, Greece, the coolest place we've ever been by boat, we head for the Gulf of Corinth, on our way to cross over to the Aegean side of the Greek Islands.
While in Mykonos, Greece we get an opportunity to do a walkthrough of Hallberg Rassy 49 "Big Blue". This is a continuation of our occasional series aimed at choosing a relatively affordable bluewater cruising sailboat.
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