Savage Islands - Sailing Salvagen EP 13

The Savage Islands or Selvagens are small islands in the North Atlantic, south of Madeira and north of the Canary Islands. There are two major islands: Selvagen Grande and Selvagen Pequena. 

They were designated a natural reserve in 1971, to protect several species of birds. Only a few reserve staff spend any length of time there. Scientists doing research, one Portuguese family and a Navy personnel. A few years ago National Geographic Society prompted the extension of the marine reserve.

About 2/3 of the way between Madeira and the Canaries, the islands are small and surrounded by rocks and reefs. A permit to visit is required.

Sailing around them, we see a turtle basking, dolphin hunting, many birds, and even caught a fish — which we lost.

We anchored in a small cove, surrounded by Shearwaters. The sunset was an explosion of silver and gold. The air full of birdsong until after dark, when we heard a splash off the stern and realized the water around the boat was full of fish. We lowered a light into the water, and were amazed by their numbers. It was worth threading the obstructions to enjoy this anchorage.

A lone Shearwater spent the night on the bow of the boat. We were the only boat anywhere around the island as far as we can tell.

The resident scientists and maritime police were welcoming—warm, friendly, funny, and gracious. Geo lead us up and over the heights, showing us the immature Shearwaters in their nests. He described how the parents feed the chick and protect it until it is fat and happy.

The scientists do their best to protect the bird population, remove non-endemic plants and animal species, and track the health of the island’s native species.

An hour or so after leaving, we run into a huge pod of dolphins working some unseen school of fish. It is spectacular to watch.

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Episode 13 season Alpha

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